A pump that's failed or is on its way out doesn't have to mean a guessing game — we diagnose first, then replace with a pump matched to your well and household demand.
Not every "dead pump" call is actually the pump. Before pulling anything, we check the electrical side first — breaker, pressure switch, and control box wiring on 3-wire systems — because a bad pressure switch or a tripped breaker looks identical to a failed motor from inside the house. If the pump itself is confirmed bad (no output, seized motor, burnt-out windings, or a motor pulling abnormal amperage), we move to replacement.
For submersible systems, this means pulling the pump, drop pipe, and wiring, inspecting the wire splice and torque arrestor, and lowering a new correctly sized pump back down with new wiring if the old wiring shows wear. For jet pump systems, it's a more straightforward above-ground swap, though we still check the foot valve and drive pipe while we're in there since a bad foot valve is a common reason a "new pump" loses prime again shortly after replacement.
Cost note: submersible pump replacement typically runs from roughly $900 on the low end for a shallow, easy-access well up to $2,500+ for deeper wells or larger horsepower motors; jet pump replacement is usually less. See our cost guide for a fuller breakdown — treat any number as a starting estimate until we've seen your specific well.